Entries Tagged as 'San Miguel'

Spanish Conversation Class in San Miguel

I am going to paste an introduction from Miss Emily Lupita Plum, one of our Post-Graduates who will be joining us this summer in San Miguel.  Emily has agreed to teach a Spanish Conversation class for us.  This is an informal class usually held over the lunch break and at other odd times during the month there.  Its a good way to brush up on some Spanish skills, and as it takes place over the lunch break, class may even be held at local restaraunts and other places.  So drop by te class and bursh up on your ordering skills!  Also, Emily makes a phrasebook recommendation, and I wholeheartedly second her recommendation - the Lonely Planet phrasebook and guides are exceptional!

Thanks!

Many Greetings!

I’ll be teaching a Spanish conversation class during the noon hour in San Miguel and would like to invite you to join. The class will be focused on beginners, but all levels are welcome. We’re going to concentrate on everyday interactions such as ordering food, shopping, talking about the weather, and asking for directions. It will be fun and relaxed, with lots of speaking practice and no exams. ?

We’ll be using the Lonely Planet Mexican Spanish phrasebook, so please be sure to pick one up before you leave home.

I recommend this book to everyone because it fits in your pocket and has just about everything you need to get around. Click here to find it on Amazon.com.

More details about where & when the class will meet will be given during orientation in San Miguel.

I’m also available for private Spanish tutoring in small groups.

For more information & to contact me, please visit my website: http://www.emilyplum.com

I’m really looking forward to meeting you all this summer in San Miguel de Allende!

~ Emily Lupita Plum

Cafe de San Agustin

This is a wonderful spot for breakfast!  The specialty here is hand made - the old fashioned way! - churros con chocolate.  Churros are long thin falky fried pastries dusted with sugar.  They are dipped in thick molten chocolate, and you can decide between three different kinds.  The difference is the amount of sweetness in the chocolate.  I went for the Chocolate Espanola, which was the least sweet, and more of a dark chocolate.  As we were there bright and early, we got to watch the churros preparations, and it was really cool to see the guys behind the counter stirring the dough with huge wooden sticks.  We also had fruit and yogurt here, and coffee and tea juice, and the entire bill for 2, here, was $208 pesos, or less than twenty dollars.  This is a nice treat, and a great pick me up after a late night….

A Fan of Churros?  Want to learn how to make your own?  Click here.

The Mercado (Market) in San Miguel

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The market in San Miguel is actually pretty awesome. You can get everything from the typical touristy stuff here, to fine jewelry, handmade crafts (pottery, baskets, tiny beaded items, etc), to food. It stretches on for what seems liek an eternity. I lusted after a chunky red necklace of fine coral. Prices for that ranged from about six hundred pesos (about $60) on up to about $1500 pesos. It is the real thing, and coral has gone up a lot. I refrained from purchasing it, much to my chagrin. But you can get necklaces of coral, turquoise, jade, amber, jet, and jasper, and just about everything in between. The colors are gorgeous, and while the craftsmanship varies, everyone seems open to bargaining. Go to the market, but don’t go on an empty stomach, like I did. You’ll want to give yourself time to find what you like, and then make sure you can’t find the same thing two stalls down for two hundred pesos less…. We bought everything frombarrettes made of abalone shell and mother of pearl, to chip and dip pottery trays. I did get two handmade journals for two of my roommates, both of whom are graduating. They were made of fine paper, and were handpainted with Dia De Los Muertes scenes on the front. I think my roommates liked them alot, and I plan on getting one for myself when I go back. These journals were all of 6o pesos (less than 6 dollars) each…. One thing to remember, though - this market is more what we would call a flea market. Its cash only ladies and gents! And also, may of the people selling these wares made them themselves. And they all seem quite desperate for the sale, which can be a bit hard, as nobody can buy everything, nor even something from everyone.

Empanadas of Shrimp and Coconut at El Buen Cafe

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Photo Above was actually taken in Guanajuato, and is of a mother and son.  The mother is scraping the thorns off oc cactus leaves, preparing them to eat…. 

Ok, this was probably one of my favorite places that I have eaten at in San Miguel.  The restaurant is run by an expat, and the food is delicious, and you can get stuff on the lighter side here.  The place serves breakfast as well.  Tea drinkers will be glad to know that they can find Stash and Constant Comment teas for sale here (by the box or to drink).  Vegetarians will be glad to know that they have a wider selection of food choices here, and can get some delicious fruit and vegetable juices as well.  But don’t worry carnivores, you can also get an hamburguesa (a hamburger) here, with a choice of fixins, and even a salmon with a guava chipotle marinade.  They have tacos, pasta, some delicious spinach and mushroom quesadillas, and the menu boasts a green salad with Roquefort, pears, and spiced pecans.  I had the shrimp and coconut empanadas, and they were incredibly tasty.  I would definitely order them again.  And probably again.  And a warning to anyone trying to watch their figure - here the sight of big homemade chocolate cakes and pies will probably having you watch that waistline expand ;).  And if you like what you eat, you can buy one of Kris’s cookbooks, which are on display in the restaurant and are also available for sale.  Prices are excellent, the location (just a few blocks off the Jardin) is convenient, and I foresee many happy lunches at El Buen Cafe!

Cha Cha Cha?

No, I’m not talking about dancing. I’ll get to that part later. I’m talking about one of my delicious meals in San Miguel. While this restaurant is definitely off the beaten path, it has a good selection of traditional Mexican fare, and is served in a lovely courtyard. Like many places, they start you out with a lovely presentation of chips and guacamole, and the ice tea, or te helado, was very refreshing after our walk there in the hot sun. Here you can get quesadillas of many different kinds - vegetarians will want to try the rajas en crema (poblano chiles and cheese - which can sometimes be a bit spicy, and sometimes will be very mild). Non-veg people will want to try the pollo con mole (chicken in mole sauce) - which I have to say was delicious, and I am really not a fan of chicken. An order of quesadillas will get your four - and you can mix and match from about six different kinds. At 58 pesos, it was delicious and a great deal! Also, Alea, my travelling companion, had a dish that was very good, but the name, unfortunately, I did not catch. It was a type of corn dish covered by a thick dark green sauce, and I highly recommend it. I will get the name for you when I go back this summer, because despite the walk this place incurs - it was well worth a second trip!

Also, for those of you interested in visiting a gym, there is one with daily rates near by - I will post on that in a bit. ;) p1000505.jpg

La Bugambilia - A restaurant in San Miguel

So in many of my culinary searches about San Miguel this particular restaurant comes up. They re known for their chiles en nogada frios: marinated poblano chilies filled with chopped beef, pecans, almonds, and dried fruits and topped with cream sauce and a spray of pomegranate seeds. I didn’t have these, actually, as we had snacked a little too heavily on chips and guacamole at La Pamplonada, the palce where we will have the readings. However, I did have Quesadillas de Flor de Calabzas - quesadillas with zucchini flowers, which were about 70 pesos (between 5 and 6 dollars). I thought they were awfully heavy on the cheese (but what did I expect?) and actually a little bland. With a little salsa picante, though, they were filling and good. Also, the sopa azteca, known to us gringos as tortilla soup, was quite good, although again, definitely a bit on the cheesy side. By far the culinary winner was the cerdo in chile negra - pork in a dark sauce, similar to mole, and apples. It tasted surprisingly light, and the combination of the apples and the mole were delicious. I would highly recommend this dish…. You can get it for 110 pesos, which s about 9 dollars US. Bugambilia is a bit on the pricey side, for San Miguel, but the ambiance makes it worthwhile. There was live music playing quietly throughout our meal, which was served in a lovely courtyard, centered around a large and colorful bougainvillea plant…. I would definitely go there again, and I can’t wait to try the chiles en nogada….

Want to read a review of the restaurant by the NY Times?  Click here.

Getting to San miguel from Mexico City

The following info was provided to me by Laura, manager of the Casita de Las Flores. Many thanks to her for the useful info! However, I do hope that you will not fly in to Mexico City, as the trip is rather arduous, and by the time you add in the transportation costs into San Miguel, not really much cheaper…

There is a first-class bus (it takes around 3 hours and costs around US $22 each way) that leaves about every hour, directly from the Mexico City AIRPORT, to Queretaro. (Which means you don’t have to mess with taxis, and driving in the city) As you exit customs, go left, and then up the stairs you will see on your left. Go past the food court and you will see the Aero Plus ticket counter straight ahead. Once in Queretaro, you have to get over to the 2nd class terminal and take a 2nd class bus (about 1 hour 20 mins) to SMA (or you could take a cab from the bus station - be sure to prepay inside the terminal and take the ticket out to the driver - cost is roughly $40).

It’s a 5 - 7 hour trip, depending on your luck connecting with the buses. There are only three direct buses to SMA per day from the Mexico Norte bus station, so this is much more convenient. This is the least painful and least expensive way to get here by bus from Mexico city (the much less painful and second least expensive way is below).

If you want to spend a bit more (than the bus option), there’s a shuttle service that helps speed things up. They meet you at the Mexico City airport, and put you on the bus to Queretaro. Then they meet you at the Q bus station and bring you directly to the Casita for US $65 (which includes the $22 first class bus ticket) This option is at least 30 mins. faster and far less hassle–usually a little more than a four-hour trip. Saves you time and the potential frustration of the 2nd class bus to SMA.

shuttle company: http://www.viajessanmiguel.com/ (They’ll need your exact flight info.)

If you try to reserve a shuttle and they do not confirm your reservation within a few days of your departure, please let me know and I’ll follow up on it.

Who Wants to go to Las Pozas?

Henry Griffin, screenwriting professor for San Miguel this summer, sent me this link to an article in the New York Times about Las Pozas. Las Pozas is, according to Lonely Planet Mexico, “a bizarre but beautiful concatention of concrete temples, pagodas, bridges, pavilions, sculptures, and spiral stairways - built adjacent to a series of waterfalls.” All of which I found highly intriguing. Might be fun to go visit this place, built by Edward James, an English surrealist and eccentric, who “bankrolled the publications of poems by John Betjeman, and supported Dylan Thomas for awhile” as well as working with artists like Salvador Dali. Apparently, Las Pozas was supposed to be his recreation of the Garden of Eden, and was, at one time, filled with orchids and exotic flowers in addition to the sculpture. James died in 1984, and the palce has been left to wither away for much of that time, although now, it seems, efforts to preserve and revive it are underway. Las Pozas is easily reached from Xilitla - which shouldn’t be a bad trip from San Miguel. I’m thinking, free travel weekend?

Bus Travel to and From San Miguel

So some info on taking the bus to San Miguel from Mexico City, and from San Miguel to other places can be found here. And here’s a link to the About.com article on Traveling by Bus in Mexico.

Cheap Mexico Airlines

Hola San Miguelers! So, as I was browsing around looking for some places to go for myself before and after the program, I found this page on about.com I thought you all might be interested in looking at, called Cheap Mexico Airlines. Now, in my cursry experience so far, it is difficult to find something affordable - by bus or plane - to the beach from San Miguel. If sun and surf aren’t your post-program (or free travel weekend) requirements, then these sites are probably more helpful. Particularly if Monterrey appeals to you. And please, if you find a good deal out there on your now, let us know here on the blog, or email me and I’ll be happy to share it with everyone else.

Happy Trails!

Film and Mexico

Bomb magazine has some interesting articles on Mexico that might be of interest, particular to our film crew….

Margo Glantz, by Alvaro Enrigue

Beto Gomez, by Carlos A Gutierrez

Southern Living Chimes in on San Miguel

Ok, it seems we have dueling articles out there this month. Southern Living also has an article, “A Change of Pace,” which I was keyed in to by Bryan CampParroquia Sunset and his fiancee. Of the two articles, I like this one better. This one also made me hungry talking about some of the food - I am going down to San Miguel (I think) later this month, and I will be sure to do my best to rate as many more restaurants as I can!

In the meantime, a quote from the article:

food

“San Miguel has great rooftop bars—perfect for winding down before dinner. And the city’s restaurants serve an incredible variety of cuisines, including Italian, Arabic, organic-vegetarian, Chinese, and German. You can also sample an array of local dishes, from fancy corn fungus crêpes served in a rooftop restaurant to gorditas made to order at a wildly popular stand across the street from the public library.”

hmmm. Corn fungus? I’ll try anything once….

San Miguel “An Affair To Remember”

Special thanks to Jesse Loren, UNO Low-Res alum and future San Migueler, for sending along this article, “An Affair to Remember” in Sunset Magazine about San Miguel. I quote:

Street in San Miguel

“People love San Miguel de Allende, Mexico. They love San Miguel so much that when you tell them you’re making your first visit, their love annoys you. San Miguel will change your life, they say. Yeah, right, you think. The architecture, the culture. I’ve seen old buildings, you mutter, I’ve seen lots of old buildings.Flower Border in San Miguel

So you make the flight to Leon, in central Mexico, and the hourlong taxi ride, and you’re in San Miguel. And just as all the annoying people warned you, you’re in love. Here, on the slopes of the Mexican altiplano, is a city that reminds you of parts — the best parts — of Santa Fe, of Siena, of Seville.”

So check the article out.  Its got some restaurant advice and the author really seems to have fallen in love with the place - as I hope we all will!

The NYTimes on Acid Kool-Aid and Mexican Waves

Read the NY Times article on Ken Kesey’s Mexico, and have a trippy good time doing it.

Culinary Diplomacy

So if I seem a little food obsessed today, its because I’m food obsessed every day. get used to it. There’s something about food, though, that I think can provide the most intimate connection with culture. In my own life, PECAN PIE will always equal my Ma-Maw. And yes, I mean Ma-Maw, not grandma or any other permutation of the word. Only Ma-Maw can cover her handing be the bowl of pecans to crack into size, and helping me to learn the right layers of butter, syrups, and eggs to sover them with. Only Ma-Maw can mean someone not caring if you cover your entire body in flour while rolling out the dough, and only Ma-Maw wouldn’t care if you only ate the gooey sweetness of the pie that came out of the oven and none of the expensive pecans. Pecan pie, then, means something significant about the way I was raised, and something sacred about family. Its more than just sustenance (especially if its made right ;) ). Its nigh onto symbolic.

The SOUTH may be a region known for a closer relationship with food than is healthy or strictly necessary, but every region of the world has its own flavors, and I think exploring them is way to tie yourself to a place in a visceral way. A few years ago, when I was at Brunnenburg, Sitzo led us through a wine tasting of different specialties of the region. He introduced us to words like vintage and vernace. He also made the point that the particular climate of the region produced a particular kind of wine, that probably wouldn’t taste the same in a different climate. Being souvenir searching Americans, we disbelieved him and brought Tirolean wine home with us. I, for one, found him to be right….

Experiencing the cuisine of a place can be fun and exciting, and it is a great bridge into the culture and history of a place. I encourage you all to try new things. Have that cactus taco. Try the Hibiscus juice. Give a habanero a whirl. Try ANYTHING once. And you can start by checking out this blog on culinary travel adventures in Mexico:

http://mexicocooks.typepad.com/

Mexican cuisine is currently enjoying a new en vogue status as it makes its way onto plates in both fusion and revival forms in finer restaurants all over the world. And I for one don’t plan on missing any of this particular culinary invasion!

More on being Vegan/Vegetarian, And Some Phrases

I’ll be honest, vegan is difficult when traveling ANYWHERE. I always advise vegans that they are going to have to be flexible. It is possible though, as Mexican fare lends itself to being at least vegeatarian a hell of a lot easier than a lot of cuisines. You’re only problem is going to be that they love to slather everything in cheese. I can help you with how to order, and there are some good phrasing guides that will help too. But for starters, here are a couple of phrases that will help:

Soy vegetariano/a. - I am a vegetarian.
Soy vegetaraino/a estricto ( I am a strict vegetarian - the closest you’ll get to saying I’m vegan).
Quiero este plato sin carne. Es possible? I want this dish without meat - is that possible?
Quiero este plato sin queso. I want this dish without cheese.
No puedo comer carne - ni pollo, ni pesce. I can’t eat meat, nor chicken, nor fish. For some reason, outside of the US, fish and chicken are not considered meat….

And of course, one mustn’t forget the most important:

Quiero un cerveze por favor! I want a beer please.
Quiero una cana por favor (cana is pronounced canya) - I want a small draft beer please
Quiero un chupito de tequila por favor - I want a shot of tequila, please. If they ask if you want the sangrita, say yes. Its like a tequila Bloody Mary in a shot glass, and its vegan…. ;)
Otra ronda! Another round please….

I will try to include a lot of this in our opening packets. And I don’t mean to scare you - I think you can eat, and eat well. Also, fruits and veggies are plentiful, and the guacamole is always fresh. It won’t be as it is when you are at home, but you do have some options. And its a hell of a lot easier than it was in Spain, thats for sure….

Internet Access in San Miguel

Several people have asked, so I thought I would post this here for the world to see…

Internet is widely available in San Miguel, and will be available wirelessly both at the school and in all of our housing locations. There are also a number of internet cafes in the town - a surprising number, I thought, for the size of the place. However, internet in Mexico is not as reliable as internet here. The people I correspond with often go MIA for a day or two, as there seems to be only one service provider in town, so when service goes down its down. For the most part, though, I don’t imagine it will be a problem. We were able to access the internet the whole time we were there, and Bill was pretty much glued to his iPhone…

Travel Planning for San Miguel

The following information will be familiar to all of the San Miguel enrollees, but I wanted to post it here for everyone else who might be thinking about joining us this summer, and to have a single place all of you could come to find it. So the following is info/tips on finding and booking your flight to San Miguel:

I also wanted to talk to you all about travel arrangements. I will send an email out about what to pack and bring, and what to generally expect from your trip sometime soon. However, now is the best time to purchase airfare, so I primarily want to talk about that. For those of you that went to Madrid, you will notice that airfare is significantly cheaper than what we had to pay before! However, we’re not talking about chump change, so I want to encourage you all to shop around and get the best deal possible. I have talked to STA, and since they have no contract with the airport in Leon they can not offer us student fares to the airport there. However, I will list a couple of sites and while I am in no way endorsing them, I have personally found that they are good places to look when you are interested in booking airfare - see these sites with a little write up below. The airport you will want to fly into is Gunajuato/Leon, and the airport code is BJX. You are, of course, welcome to fly into another airport. However, we provide transportation into San Miguel only to students arriving on June 23rd into the Guanajuato/Leon airport. So if you want to come in on your own, feel free, but you will be on your own to get into San Miguel. San Miguel is about 1.5 hrs from Guanajuato/Leon….

There are only two airlines that fly into Guanajuato/Leon, and they are Delta and Continental. Continental is, in my opinion, the better choice of the two. They still serve food, although its not terribly good. As if airplane food ever was. vegetarians beware, though, you will need to specify that you want a vegetarian meal when booking the tickets, call about two weeks out from the departure date to confirm it, and then alert the flight attendant the moment you get on the plane. I have often had them forget my veg meal, but if you ask soon enough while boarding they can often arrange to get something for you. Alternatively, you can pack your own food, but you must eat anything fresh (veggies or fruit) before landing in Mexico as they will make you throw anything like that away.

Another tip - if you are in the low-res program, or planning on doing a lot of traveling, get a frequent flier account with either Continental or Delta. I managed to fly in business or first class every time but the first time I went to Europe (and we’re talking five summers) by being diligent about collecting miles. Bigger seats, and hey, they serve free alcohol up there behind them curtains! And usually gourmet chocolate. ;) Also, generally the cheapest day to fly is Tuesday - but Saturdays are pretty good too. Of course, the day you need to arrive is a Monday, but you have some flexibility on the way back, and remember to think seriously about that return date before you book that ticket. You may want to travel around after the program ends. We have lodging paid through the night of the closing party, the 17th of July. After that, you’re on your own, so home may be calling, or the beach may be calling - your choice!

After you book your tickets and know your itinerary we will need you to report it on our itinerary report form on the web, but we will discuss that at a later date. For now, happy ticket shopping! And feel free to email me and ask if I think a price is fair or not.

Here are some websites:

The two powerhouses are, of course,

www.travelocity.com and

www.expedia.com

Check them both, but then also check some other sites. Don’t let them have the monopoly!

http://www.statravel.com/ - still a good site. They will make you buy an ISIC card, but hey, its a good thing to have. I recommend it. If nothing else, it will save you on admittance to AMC theatres…. As far as airfare goes, Austin peeps may definitely want to use this one. They quoted me a price of less than $350.00 round trip. It varies depending on departure date and location, though, but give them a shot. And an STA tip - CALL THEM! Make friends with the agent you talk to - and by that I mean nice, tell them who you are/what you’re studying, and how poor you are ;). They CAN help find you a really good price. And if you get an agent you don’t gel with, hang up and call back.

www.priceline.com - the secret to Priceline is to bid low and gradually increase. I think this might be a VERY good site for us to use this summer. Name your price - start at $300.00, I’d say, unless you live in Austin, and for that, see above…. You can go up from there. You may not get any traction with them, but you never know. But be forewarned, when you suggest a price and agree to book, the instant the find an airline that accepts your offer your credit card will be charged. You must bid realistically, and by that I mean, don’t bid a penny more than you are able to and willing to spend.

http://www.mobissimo.com/results_airfare.php?QueryID=8106fca9cf3a8dc161dffac3f7d50004 - this site is really much better for travel in Europe, however, it gave me a relatively fair price for a flight from NOLA to BJX (LEON). It came back with $566 and some change for a round trip fare. Not too shabby…

www.orbitz.com - ya know, there’s something I don’t like about this site but it does often have good cheap prices. Don’t take them at face value, though, and shop around!

And finally, sometimes these days the airlines themselves will offer you the best price. Don’t book ANYWHERE else, not even on priceline, without checking them first:

Continental Airlines: http://www.continental.com/web/en-US/default.aspx

Delta Airlines: http://www.delta.com/home/index.jsp?Log=1&MkCpgn=SEzzzw1a&keyword=delta%20airlines

Okay, thats about it for now, but please let me know if you have any questions, and I look forward to seeing you in San Miguel!

Hasta Pronto!

Barack on Mexico

Someone sent me a link to this article in the Dallas Morning News. Its Barak Obama talking about the need to improve relations with Mexico, and heavily criticizing the Bush administration for letting our relationships with our North American allies get so horribly strained. A quote:

Mr. Bush took office vowing to make the Americas a top priority. But over the last seven years, the administration’s approach to this issue has been clumsy, disinterested and, above all, distracted by the war in Iraq. Indeed, relations have not fully recovered since Mexico refused to fall in line with President Bush’s rush to war.”

And one more:

Our relationship with Mexico should serve as a bridge to greater security and prosperity in North America and to better relations with Latin America. But we cannot achieve this partnership unless we engage in sustained and focused diplomacy, and develop a more effective working relationship with our neighbor to the south.”

Obama talks about a rise in hate crimes against Latinos and trouble on the borders. Hillary has been invited to respond with a similar essay. But as we are about to be Ambassadors to Mexico in our own right, what do you think?

Oh! The Massages We Will Get!

So prior to my trip to San Miguel I began conversing with Susan McKinney, proprietress of Jasmine Day Spa in San Miguel, just a couple blocks from Bosque. An American expat and writer herself, I inquired if she would be willing to offer discount on spa services to the members of our program this summer. She was eager to do so, and as I believe in doing PROPER research Ladies and Gentleman, I took it upon myself to inspect her spa and their services. At the end of our whirlwind two day business trip I booked a massage and a facial at the spa. The spa is located on Calle Jesus, and you climb a flight of stairs to enter. The spa itself was quite pretty, though not the dark and dreamy brand of spa we might be used to here in the US. Susan was lovely, and she arranged for a member of her staff to give me the massage and facial. The massage room they took me too was very comfortable, and very light. I could just spy the spires of the parroquia from the window in the room. The therapists lack of English was a little awkward at first, but I really didn’t find it much of a hindrance. I don’t much like making small talk with strangers while I’m naked anyhow.

The massage was top notch, and she used just the right amount of pressure. I must say, and I have no trouble recommending her or the spa, and the total for my services came to just under $50 USD (and yes, I paid, no kickbaceks here ;). That’s for an hr facial and an hr massage. You can’t get either one for less than fifty most places int eh US, and certainly not in New Orleans….

I encourage you all to take advantage of the spa and relaxation services they offer here, as well as at the Hot Springs we will visit on our last excursion….