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A Few Thoughts and Reactions to San Miguel from Our Fiction Contest Winner, Martha Otis:

I was downtown on the night that San Miguel was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I met up with some other UNO folks and we watched the impromptu festival that erupted in the town square. The fireworks, set off from the parochia, were loud and colorful and ridiculously dangerous, pieces of burnt explosives falling into our hair. It was quite exhilarating to be in the middle of all this.

If you can get out of town and walk through the desert somewhere in the environs of San Miguel, or even just up somewhere high in the city, at the ridge where the houses stop, I’d really recommend it. The quality of light, which apparently attracts a lot of the artists who like the area, is indeed special.

I also would like to recommend a couple of dishes to try while you are in San Miguel: pozole and chiles enogados, the first being a hominy soup and the second being poblano chiles stuffed with spiced ground beef and smothered with walnut sauce, then topped with pomegranate seeds. You can’t get this kind of food in most US cities, even in decent Mexican restaurants, and it’s standard fare here, which means good and reasonably priced. Don’t miss the Guanajuato excursion, and when you go, try the enchiladas mineras, which are topped with potatoes and carrots; they really stick to your ribs and if made well, which they usually are.

One thing I was a bit wary of was the reputation of San Miguel for being a place for US ex-patriots. Honestly, I feared that this would mean more ugly American presence than I found. Call me paranoid. In fact I did not sense this at all when I was there. I felt after the month we all spent in the city that the foreigners who had chosen San Miguel as a place of residence were respectful of the place and keen on learning its language, customs, and history. As an example, the owner of our hotel was an elderly American woman who had married a Mexican and had a family in Mexico – 3 generations! Obviously, if you stay in San Miguel and start a family there, there is a lot at stake in knowing and integrating with the local culture.

Jean Lamberty on Disovering Pozole in San Miguel

Post-Graduate Writer and ‘08 Participant Writes about discovering new foods in San Miguel:

Pozole

One delicious rite-of-passage in San Miguel is eating pozole. I lost my pozole virginity at La Alborada, an unpretentious restaurant just a block from the jardin. Other food is available, but you want the pozole.

Pozole is a traditional soup made with red chiles and a hominy-like corn called nixtamal. The waitress will ask if you want pork, chicken, or beef (I had mine sin carne.) Before the soup comes, the waitress brings a basket of crispy dried corn tortillas and small bowls of diced onion, shredded lettuce, chopped radishes, oregano, ground hot peppers, and limes. My friend and I thought this was a strange version of chips and salsa one is served at American Mexican restaurants, so we dug in.

Then our soup came. It looked like tomato soup with chick peas and it tasted pretty good. Fortunately the couple at the next table recognized our ignorance and intervened. Those little bowls of vegetables and spices are for garnishing the soup! You load up the soup and then squeeze lime juice over it. The flavors and textures blend into a unique, wonderful taste experience, especially when you scoop up the soup with the dried tortillas. My mouth is watering just thinking about it.

Other restaurants serve pozole, and other delicious soups, as well. But I highly recommend La Alborada. The pozole is great and inexpensive, and the restaurant is informal, friendly, and fun.

La Alborada
Sollano #11 (just south of Correo)
Monday-Saturday 1:00-10:30 PM (closed Sundays)

The Frying Pan and The Fire – Evacuating for Gustav

So many of you have contacted me, and I want to tell you all the story, but thought I would put it here for everyone to read. Information on UNO’s and New Orleans reopening is in red at the end. Let me know if you have any questions!!!

First, you may want to know that I was unable to leave until Sunday morning because my car broke down on Friday. I’d had no indication anything was wrong until Thursday evening on my way home from work. Afer calling around on Friday I finally founf a place that could take it. Every other place was 30-40 cars deep. I took it to a Midas on Canal. They tried to charge me $800 to replace my alternator and my battery. I finally talked them down to $606. I fully intend to report them for price gouging when I return. They knew it was my only means of evacuating, and that I virtually had no choice but to pay whatever price they asked. This is the bad side of what happens in an emergency. In any case, they didn’t finish my car until Saturday, so I simply could not leave before Sunday.

Saturday evening (having cleaned out almost all edible food from my refirgerator, a couple of us headed down to Frenchman Street for dnner. Driving around the city was eerie. There was nearly nothing open, and all shops and hosues were boarded up. There was a cop on almost every other street, and the streets were dark. There was a palpable sense of anxiety. It was as if it was an eletrical current in the air…. At dinner, though we tried to talk about other things, table talk was all Gustav, Katrina, and can we get another round please?

We made it an early night. We stll had cars to load, and short naps to get before we left our homes to weather who knew what….

I left New Orleans at 4 am on Sunday morning. I was caravanning with some friends, and my car was packed tight with what I was bringing to evacuate, my dog, my two cats, and the tiny two month old kitten that had come running out of an abandoned house next door. The kitten put its little paws on my foot and meowed and purred and I couldn’t leave it to potentially drown, so took it with me. I’m calling it karma, because I feel like it must have some very good karma.

I was trying to beat the contraflow, which had been scheduled to start at 6, but was moved up to 4, so got stuck right in the middle of it. Merging onto I-10 was scary to begin with. The cars were inching along, and it was nothing but break lights as far as the eye could see ine ither direction. Contraflow didn’t start till the other side of the lake, and it took us over two hours just to get to the lake. had WDSU on the car radio and listened to the reports non-stop. I was addicted to information and ouldn’t turn it off. People who’d already been driving for hours were stopped on either side of the road, walking dogs, stretching legs, and eyeing the marsh in the distance. Everything felt like a very dark dream, even after it got light. I joked that I felt like was in a David Lynch film. Especially as I was listening on the radio to reports of how SUCCESSFUL contra-flow and the evacuation was going. I must have been hearing those reports from an alternate universe.

“We’re very happy that we were able to get the citizens out in a timely and expeditious matter,” said New Orleans City Council member James Carter, District C.

It took me almost 8 hrs to make it to Hattiesburg, MS, which should be about an hour away from the city. The state police kept closing off exits, as each of the gas statons there ran out of gas. By the time we got to Hattiesburg it was about noon, and I had run out of snacks and yet to have a meal. It would still be a while. Myself and my friend travelling with me are vegetarian, so the few fast food places we encountered were almost all off-limits, and every Burger King we came to for much of the day was out of veggie burgers. I lived on penauts and sweet tea between then and the time we finally found food, around 3 pm that day.

To everyone that sent me text messages – thank you. If not for you I wouldn’t have been able to stay awake, and as it was almost impossible to get a call out, you are life-savers. Perhaps quite literally! This is one of the good things about people in an emergency….

After eighteen hours of driving I made it only as far as Tuscaloosa, AL.

By the time we made it to Tuscaloosa I couldn’t go any farther. I was exhausted, sore, and the animals were restless, hungry, and thirsty. I had been feeling as if I was driving drunk for a number of hours. I was so tired I’d lost depth perception, and the never ending stream of brake lights was merging into one funny looking red dot. I knew that we could go no further.

I was very upset and we got off the interstate and started going around begging for rooms. There were none to be had. had been trying to book something or days, so was not surprised. My phone was also dead at this point, and two women at one of the hotels took pity on us, let me charge the phone, and gave us some water and fruit. It was after 9 now, and the only meal we’d had since 3 am was the 3 pm one in Laurel, MS.

Eventually, they gave us a room (after I both broke down in tears on them, and then translated for them and a Spanish speaking guest). It was well after 11 pm at that point. It had become over a twenty hours saga at that point. We were at a Hilton Garden Inn and these women, Antesha and Brianne, were incredible. They are not only what Guest Service should be, they are good, kind people. I am writing to Hilton about them….

We came the rest of the way to Chattanooga, where I have friends, yesterday. And then had a pitcher of very strong margaritas.

Bill and Nancy are in Ponchatoula. They have no power, but do have a generator, and so far, so good there…. Everyone else I know is safe so far. If there is anyone in particular you want to inquire about, let me know.

In the meantime, the University of New Orleans has decided that classes and normal operatons will not resume until Monday, Septemeber 8th. Stay in touch, and check the website for more details. Also, if you are a NOLA evacuee reading this Nagin is urging people not to try to return until late Wed or Thursday at present, as power is out in over two-thirds of city and water and sewage sytems are not working properly. The city remains on curfew. And who wants to live under martial law – AGAIN? We all remember the troops of National Guardsmen filing past the Parkview Tavern with their machine guns in one hand their beer in another. It inspires such confidence….

Stay safe everyone. And thanks again for your many kind calls, emails, texts, and well-wishes.

Jeni