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Cafe de San Agustin

This is a wonderful spot for breakfast!  The specialty here is hand made - the old fashioned way! - churros con chocolate.  Churros are long thin falky fried pastries dusted with sugar.  They are dipped in thick molten chocolate, and you can decide between three different kinds.  The difference is the amount of sweetness in the chocolate.  I went for the Chocolate Espanola, which was the least sweet, and more of a dark chocolate.  As we were there bright and early, we got to watch the churros preparations, and it was really cool to see the guys behind the counter stirring the dough with huge wooden sticks.  We also had fruit and yogurt here, and coffee and tea juice, and the entire bill for 2, here, was $208 pesos, or less than twenty dollars.  This is a nice treat, and a great pick me up after a late night….

A Fan of Churros?  Want to learn how to make your own?  Click here.

The Mercado (Market) in San Miguel

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The market in San Miguel is actually pretty awesome. You can get everything from the typical touristy stuff here, to fine jewelry, handmade crafts (pottery, baskets, tiny beaded items, etc), to food. It stretches on for what seems liek an eternity. I lusted after a chunky red necklace of fine coral. Prices for that ranged from about six hundred pesos (about $60) on up to about $1500 pesos. It is the real thing, and coral has gone up a lot. I refrained from purchasing it, much to my chagrin. But you can get necklaces of coral, turquoise, jade, amber, jet, and jasper, and just about everything in between. The colors are gorgeous, and while the craftsmanship varies, everyone seems open to bargaining. Go to the market, but don’t go on an empty stomach, like I did. You’ll want to give yourself time to find what you like, and then make sure you can’t find the same thing two stalls down for two hundred pesos less…. We bought everything frombarrettes made of abalone shell and mother of pearl, to chip and dip pottery trays. I did get two handmade journals for two of my roommates, both of whom are graduating. They were made of fine paper, and were handpainted with Dia De Los Muertes scenes on the front. I think my roommates liked them alot, and I plan on getting one for myself when I go back. These journals were all of 6o pesos (less than 6 dollars) each…. One thing to remember, though - this market is more what we would call a flea market. Its cash only ladies and gents! And also, may of the people selling these wares made them themselves. And they all seem quite desperate for the sale, which can be a bit hard, as nobody can buy everything, nor even something from everyone.

Empanadas of Shrimp and Coconut at El Buen Cafe

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Photo Above was actually taken in Guanajuato, and is of a mother and son.  The mother is scraping the thorns off oc cactus leaves, preparing them to eat…. 

Ok, this was probably one of my favorite places that I have eaten at in San Miguel.  The restaurant is run by an expat, and the food is delicious, and you can get stuff on the lighter side here.  The place serves breakfast as well.  Tea drinkers will be glad to know that they can find Stash and Constant Comment teas for sale here (by the box or to drink).  Vegetarians will be glad to know that they have a wider selection of food choices here, and can get some delicious fruit and vegetable juices as well.  But don’t worry carnivores, you can also get an hamburguesa (a hamburger) here, with a choice of fixins, and even a salmon with a guava chipotle marinade.  They have tacos, pasta, some delicious spinach and mushroom quesadillas, and the menu boasts a green salad with Roquefort, pears, and spiced pecans.  I had the shrimp and coconut empanadas, and they were incredibly tasty.  I would definitely order them again.  And probably again.  And a warning to anyone trying to watch their figure - here the sight of big homemade chocolate cakes and pies will probably having you watch that waistline expand ;).  And if you like what you eat, you can buy one of Kris’s cookbooks, which are on display in the restaurant and are also available for sale.  Prices are excellent, the location (just a few blocks off the Jardin) is convenient, and I foresee many happy lunches at El Buen Cafe!

Cha Cha Cha?

No, I’m not talking about dancing. I’ll get to that part later. I’m talking about one of my delicious meals in San Miguel. While this restaurant is definitely off the beaten path, it has a good selection of traditional Mexican fare, and is served in a lovely courtyard. Like many places, they start you out with a lovely presentation of chips and guacamole, and the ice tea, or te helado, was very refreshing after our walk there in the hot sun. Here you can get quesadillas of many different kinds - vegetarians will want to try the rajas en crema (poblano chiles and cheese - which can sometimes be a bit spicy, and sometimes will be very mild). Non-veg people will want to try the pollo con mole (chicken in mole sauce) - which I have to say was delicious, and I am really not a fan of chicken. An order of quesadillas will get your four - and you can mix and match from about six different kinds. At 58 pesos, it was delicious and a great deal! Also, Alea, my travelling companion, had a dish that was very good, but the name, unfortunately, I did not catch. It was a type of corn dish covered by a thick dark green sauce, and I highly recommend it. I will get the name for you when I go back this summer, because despite the walk this place incurs - it was well worth a second trip!

Also, for those of you interested in visiting a gym, there is one with daily rates near by - I will post on that in a bit. ;) p1000505.jpg

La Bugambilia - A restaurant in San Miguel

So in many of my culinary searches about San Miguel this particular restaurant comes up. They re known for their chiles en nogada frios: marinated poblano chilies filled with chopped beef, pecans, almonds, and dried fruits and topped with cream sauce and a spray of pomegranate seeds. I didn’t have these, actually, as we had snacked a little too heavily on chips and guacamole at La Pamplonada, the palce where we will have the readings. However, I did have Quesadillas de Flor de Calabzas - quesadillas with zucchini flowers, which were about 70 pesos (between 5 and 6 dollars). I thought they were awfully heavy on the cheese (but what did I expect?) and actually a little bland. With a little salsa picante, though, they were filling and good. Also, the sopa azteca, known to us gringos as tortilla soup, was quite good, although again, definitely a bit on the cheesy side. By far the culinary winner was the cerdo in chile negra - pork in a dark sauce, similar to mole, and apples. It tasted surprisingly light, and the combination of the apples and the mole were delicious. I would highly recommend this dish…. You can get it for 110 pesos, which s about 9 dollars US. Bugambilia is a bit on the pricey side, for San Miguel, but the ambiance makes it worthwhile. There was live music playing quietly throughout our meal, which was served in a lovely courtyard, centered around a large and colorful bougainvillea plant…. I would definitely go there again, and I can’t wait to try the chiles en nogada….

Want to read a review of the restaurant by the NY Times?  Click here.

Getting to San miguel from Mexico City

The following info was provided to me by Laura, manager of the Casita de Las Flores. Many thanks to her for the useful info! However, I do hope that you will not fly in to Mexico City, as the trip is rather arduous, and by the time you add in the transportation costs into San Miguel, not really much cheaper…

There is a first-class bus (it takes around 3 hours and costs around US $22 each way) that leaves about every hour, directly from the Mexico City AIRPORT, to Queretaro. (Which means you don’t have to mess with taxis, and driving in the city) As you exit customs, go left, and then up the stairs you will see on your left. Go past the food court and you will see the Aero Plus ticket counter straight ahead. Once in Queretaro, you have to get over to the 2nd class terminal and take a 2nd class bus (about 1 hour 20 mins) to SMA (or you could take a cab from the bus station - be sure to prepay inside the terminal and take the ticket out to the driver - cost is roughly $40).

It’s a 5 - 7 hour trip, depending on your luck connecting with the buses. There are only three direct buses to SMA per day from the Mexico Norte bus station, so this is much more convenient. This is the least painful and least expensive way to get here by bus from Mexico city (the much less painful and second least expensive way is below).

If you want to spend a bit more (than the bus option), there’s a shuttle service that helps speed things up. They meet you at the Mexico City airport, and put you on the bus to Queretaro. Then they meet you at the Q bus station and bring you directly to the Casita for US $65 (which includes the $22 first class bus ticket) This option is at least 30 mins. faster and far less hassle–usually a little more than a four-hour trip. Saves you time and the potential frustration of the 2nd class bus to SMA.

shuttle company: http://www.viajessanmiguel.com/ (They’ll need your exact flight info.)

If you try to reserve a shuttle and they do not confirm your reservation within a few days of your departure, please let me know and I’ll follow up on it.

Who Wants to go to Las Pozas?

Henry Griffin, screenwriting professor for San Miguel this summer, sent me this link to an article in the New York Times about Las Pozas. Las Pozas is, according to Lonely Planet Mexico, “a bizarre but beautiful concatention of concrete temples, pagodas, bridges, pavilions, sculptures, and spiral stairways - built adjacent to a series of waterfalls.” All of which I found highly intriguing. Might be fun to go visit this place, built by Edward James, an English surrealist and eccentric, who “bankrolled the publications of poems by John Betjeman, and supported Dylan Thomas for awhile” as well as working with artists like Salvador Dali. Apparently, Las Pozas was supposed to be his recreation of the Garden of Eden, and was, at one time, filled with orchids and exotic flowers in addition to the sculpture. James died in 1984, and the palce has been left to wither away for much of that time, although now, it seems, efforts to preserve and revive it are underway. Las Pozas is easily reached from Xilitla - which shouldn’t be a bad trip from San Miguel. I’m thinking, free travel weekend?

Bus Travel to and From San Miguel

So some info on taking the bus to San Miguel from Mexico City, and from San Miguel to other places can be found here. And here’s a link to the About.com article on Traveling by Bus in Mexico.

Cheap Mexico Airlines

Hola San Miguelers! So, as I was browsing around looking for some places to go for myself before and after the program, I found this page on about.com I thought you all might be interested in looking at, called Cheap Mexico Airlines. Now, in my cursry experience so far, it is difficult to find something affordable - by bus or plane - to the beach from San Miguel. If sun and surf aren’t your post-program (or free travel weekend) requirements, then these sites are probably more helpful. Particularly if Monterrey appeals to you. And please, if you find a good deal out there on your now, let us know here on the blog, or email me and I’ll be happy to share it with everyone else.

Happy Trails!

Film and Mexico

Bomb magazine has some interesting articles on Mexico that might be of interest, particular to our film crew….

Margo Glantz, by Alvaro Enrigue

Beto Gomez, by Carlos A Gutierrez

Southern Living Chimes in on San Miguel

Ok, it seems we have dueling articles out there this month. Southern Living also has an article, “A Change of Pace,” which I was keyed in to by Bryan CampParroquia Sunset and his fiancee. Of the two articles, I like this one better. This one also made me hungry talking about some of the food - I am going down to San Miguel (I think) later this month, and I will be sure to do my best to rate as many more restaurants as I can!

In the meantime, a quote from the article:

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“San Miguel has great rooftop bars—perfect for winding down before dinner. And the city’s restaurants serve an incredible variety of cuisines, including Italian, Arabic, organic-vegetarian, Chinese, and German. You can also sample an array of local dishes, from fancy corn fungus crêpes served in a rooftop restaurant to gorditas made to order at a wildly popular stand across the street from the public library.”

hmmm. Corn fungus? I’ll try anything once….

San Miguel “An Affair To Remember”

Special thanks to Jesse Loren, UNO Low-Res alum and future San Migueler, for sending along this article, “An Affair to Remember” in Sunset Magazine about San Miguel. I quote:

Street in San Miguel

“People love San Miguel de Allende, Mexico. They love San Miguel so much that when you tell them you’re making your first visit, their love annoys you. San Miguel will change your life, they say. Yeah, right, you think. The architecture, the culture. I’ve seen old buildings, you mutter, I’ve seen lots of old buildings.Flower Border in San Miguel

So you make the flight to Leon, in central Mexico, and the hourlong taxi ride, and you’re in San Miguel. And just as all the annoying people warned you, you’re in love. Here, on the slopes of the Mexican altiplano, is a city that reminds you of parts — the best parts — of Santa Fe, of Siena, of Seville.”

So check the article out.  Its got some restaurant advice and the author really seems to have fallen in love with the place - as I hope we all will!