UNO: Study Abroad in Writing

The following was sent to me by Dinty Moore, three time UNO Creative Nonfiction Workshop leader. He’s one of nearest and dearest, and these are some of his words about witing and exploring with UNO. Also included are some of Dinty’s majestic photos from our first year in San Miguel:

I’ve been fortunate enough to participate in three of the University of New Orleans Low-Res MFA Summer Programs – two in Madrid and the most recent in San Miguel de Allende.

There is so much good to say about the program and the workshops – but I’ll leave that to the students. (Hopefully, even a few of my students.) But I wanted to say a few words about living in a foreign city for the full month, which is a part of the experience that I truly value.

Most tourists are lucky to spend three days in a new city, or maybe a week if time allows, but the full month experience is a wonderful opportunity. Yes, as part of that month, you will see the tourist sites and eat at the usual restaurants that are listed in the usual guidebooks, but for me the simple pleasures of going grocery shopping in an unfamiliar culture, of cooking my own meals, of getting to know the people who sell you fruit, of trying unknown vegetables and cheeses and wines, of seeing the city wake up, go to bed, move through the day-to-day transitions of work and weekend and weather, of negotiating laundry and haircuts and other personal needs, is what becomes the most fascinating.

You don’t know a city until you live in that city, and though a month is not like moving abroad for a full year or two, it certainly shows you a lot more than you might see if you breezed through over three days. Because you live there – you don’t just take pictures.

I call it immersion, and it fascinates me each time.

Dinty W. Moore

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I am going to be psoting some accounts from different program participants over the next few days.  Here’s the first from post-grad member and Spanish Conversation teacher Emily Lupita Plum.  Emily talks about her experience reading, and gives some tidbits from our post-grad workshop:

Excerpt from Emily Lupita Plum’s blog she kept while in San Miguel: http://starmountainview.blogspot.com/

Last night I read for the first time from my recently completed childhood memoir, Growing Mexican Plums. And…I sang because one of the sections I read was called “Song” and is about the songs I used to listen to as a kid. I sang lines from Supertramp’s The Logical Song and had the audience join me in a few lines from Another Brick in the Wall (Part 2). I also sang a lullaby my mom used to sing when I was little, in Spanish.

It was the first time I’ve ever sang during a reading, and I found it powerful. The audience was wonderful…gracious and generous. I felt a surge of energy when I was reading & just afterward. It helped me to remember why I’ve “chosen” the life of a writer, anyhow.

We had two guest speakers at our writing group this week and they were both fantastic. They talked about their path to becoming successful writers and gave us suggestions…imparted wisdom.

Dinty W. Moore said that writers need to pay attention to three things: karma, responsibility, and opportunity. (For more…see Dinty’s journal, Brevity).

When asked what advice she would give to writers beginning their career, Amanda Boyden said, “If you can imagine yourself doing anything else with your life and being happy, don’t be a writer…do that other thing. But if you cannot imagine yourself doing anything else, then be writer.”

Good words from both. I am learning exponentially.

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Don’t drink the tap water.  I repeat - DON’T DRINK THE TAP WATER.  Perhaps you thought this was a traveler’s myth.  Its is not.  You should not drink the tap water, nor should you brush your teeth in it, or use it to clean contacts, or anything else.  You can shower in it.  Period.  Bottled water is widely available.  Buy it.  Drink it often.  Some will be provided for you in your rooms as well at most housing locations.

As far as foods go, you should ask if fruits and vegetables have been washed with purified water.  You should also be wary of drinks with ice.  Ask if the ice is made from purified water.  If it isn’t, don’t drink it….  Thats aid, I have gone to Mexico a couple of times now, and have not suffered from any stomach upset yet.  So as long as you are careful, you should be fine!

For more info on the water in Mexico, and Montezuma’s Revenge, click here.

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The following recommendations were sent to me by Ms Lisa Allen.  I am by no means recommending or endorsing any of them, as I have not tried them.  However, Lisa lives in a similar climate, and has tried at least some of them before.  I am just posting this as an FYI….

In the $7-$11 range there are two options that are both excellent.

1) “Altitude Adjustment” by Sun Country 1-800-722-8420
This is a great one to take pro-actively.  They are in capsule form and
you can start taking them on the plane with a lot of water.  I have used
these and found them very effective.  The last time I came back to Taos
after being away for seven months the altitude hit me.  I used these for
about five days.

2) “ChlorOxygen” Chlorophyll Concentrate by Herbs etc.  www.herbsetc.com
This comes in liquid form, which is great because liquid always works
faster.  It helps to build red blood cells quickly, which is what counters
altitude sickness.

The last one is expensive, but powerful.  It will run $25-$30

3) “Cell Food” by Luminia Health Products 1-800-749-9196
It is a liquid once again and combines taking care of altitude sickness
side effects and building red blood cells quickly.

The most important thing of course, is for people to drink water before
they feel thirsty.  When you are nauseated carbonated beverages make you
feel better but they also continue to dehydrate you.  If you can find it
good old Gatorade can work wonders.

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Passport(!)

If you haven’t applied for your passport yet, do it today! You will not need a visa for our program. Also bring 2 or 3 photocopies of your passport. Once you get settled, you should carry a photocopy of your passport and leave the actual document in your room except when traveling out of the area.

Clothing

The weather in San Miguel in June and July will normally be quite warm in the middle of the day, cooling off, sometimes dramatically so, at night. It is a very high-and-dry, with low humidity.  We will, however, be there during the rainy season, so you may want to pack a small umbrella or other rain gear. You may find use for a light jacket or sweater at night.

Be sure to bring some good hiking or walking shoes and socks. The streets in San Miguel are all rough, uneven cobblestones, and they are very narrow.  Unfortunately ladies, I think heels are impossible!  So pack those cute flats and flops.  Also, some of our field trips and perhaps your own explorations may involve a good bit of walking in hilly areas and/or mountain trails, or on old cobblestone streets in Venice. A blister on your foot can be a major distraction from the experience.

A few other suggestions…
You will need a good strong sunblock.  While you can always buy more there, you will probably want this right away, and particularly if you want a certain brand, bring it with you!  I am allergic to most sunblocks, so I always pack the one kind I know I can wear with me.  Also, hats and sunglasses are a very good idea, but also available there if you’d rather wait an purchase them there.
You may want to pack one or two nicer outfits.  I’m not talking tails and evening gowns, but we do have our opening and closing banquets, and we tend to spruce up a little for these events.  Think “I’m going out for a nice dinner” wear, rather than I’m going to the ball.
Always pack a change of clothes and immediate essentials, such as prescription drugs and minimal toiletries, in your carry-on bag. Please check with your airline, though, to determine new carry-on and checked bag requirements, as well as the latest security requirements.  They seem to be changing daily lately!

You may also want to bring a small bag (or use your carry-on) for day and overnight trips.

Linens

Residents of Bosque, the Hacienda de Las Flores, and the Casita
Linens, blankets and pillows will be provided to everyone who is not staying at the hostel, so there is no need to bring along any of these items. However, when traveling it is always a good idea to carry your own towel, washcloth and soap since these are not always provided with economy lodgings. We recommend bringing a large bath or beach towel, and a smaller hand towel or washcloth.  Preferably something you can leave behind and make more room for all those souvenirs you are going to buy!
Residents of the Hostel, and Other Places on Your Own:
While basic bed lien will be provided at the hostel, you may want to pack or purchase your own.  Also, items like towels, washcloths, etc will not be provided at the hostel, so you will need to pack or buy your own.  I always recommend bringing your own towel, though, and then leaving it behind when you go, so that you have more room to bring back souvenirs.

Laundry

Laundry facilities and detergent are available in San Miguel de Allende.

Electrical Items

The voltage in Mexico is the same as in the United States.  I do, however, recommend that you bring three prong adapters and a surge protector for your computer, if you choose to bring it.

Computers

Should you bring a notebook computer? It’s up to you. If you do bring a computer on which to compose and store your work, you may also want to bring a portable printer, thought there are a number of places in San Miguel where you can print cheaply and easily.  There is only one printer available at the school, and it will be for emergencies only.  Internet is widely available in San Miguel, though, and is available at all of our housing locations, and I think if you have a laptop, and you are taking classes or planning on writing, you will be much happier with your own computer than having to budget free time to visit an internet café….

Health Insurance

We provide health insurance for all students through TW Lord and Associates. The coverage for the Writing Workshops in San Miguel de Allende program will begin June 23 and end July 18. You can purchase additional time or get further information by contacting TW Lord directly:
T.W. Lord & Associates
Emergency Center: 1-800-633-2360
Claims Processing Center:
T.W. Lord & Associates
Marietta, GA 30061
Phone 1-800-633-2360

Money

The easiest way to change your dollars into Pesos is with your ATM card, in which case you pay no exchange fees, only the standard ATM charges. You can also use your credit card to make purchases, in which case you also pay no exchange fees. Many businesses will require cash, however, so you will want to be careful with your budgeting when you decide how much cash to get out at one time.  You never want to carry too much cash, however, you don’t want to be stuck with a bill you can’t pay at the end of a meal or some such….

Prices in the region are slightly less than what you would encounter in a normal American city. You should probably plan on spending between 500 and 1,000 USD while you are there, though it is possible to spend much less (and, of course, much more).

Other Questions

Feel free to email any questions or concerns.

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If you’re planning on getting traveler’s checks, don’t waste your time or money. Nobody takes them anymore, and you have to pay sometimes exorbitant fees to get them changed into cash while abroad. The easiest and best way to change money is o simply use your ATM card. You get the daily exchange rate without a mark-up by a currency exchange company. However, do beware of bank fees. You may pay a fee at both ends - from your home bank and the one you are trying get money from abroad. Do yourself a favor and talk to your bank before leaving - sometimes banks can waive certain international fees for a limited period if you talk to them in advance. And also, make sure you let your credit card companies know you will be abroad. Many of them now have theft protection plans where they monitor your spending, and if they see (or if the computer sees) spending out of the ordinary, they will close the card. I’ve known a number of people this has happened to, and it really is simple to fix ahead of time by letting them know. Also, make sure you have numbers you can call FROM your destination (ie a US 1-800 number probably isn’t helpful) in case your card gets lost or stolen…. Although these numbers are readily available on the internet, sometimes it takes some surfing ot find the right one, and you don’t want to be having to surf the net while you’re in panic mode because your wallet or purse has just been stolen.

And finally, you can minimize those bank charges by being careful with your planning. You don’t want to have to get money out every day. But you also don’t want to be carrying tons of cash on you as you explore foreign grounds. Think carefully about how much you legitimately need for the next 4 or 5 days, add a little to it, and get that much. And never, ever, carry all your cards, cash, and id on you at once!

Ok, I hope all this was helpful. I just think its best to plan for the worst, and hope for the best!

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Hello Ladies and Gents! I am going to give you all a brief heads up about the weather situation in San Miguel, however, I will discuss this further in my What to Pack and Bring post, which is coming soon. But basically, San Miguel is a high and dry climate, although we will be there during the rainy season, so you’ll want to pack an umbrella/rain gear. Temperatures will be in the upper 70’s during the day, and falling in to the 50’s and 60’s at night. Thats quite a temp shift, I know! You’ll have to pack for both cooler and warmer climes. However, the coolest points will always be just before dawn, and while I’m sure you’ll see the sun come up some, for the most part, you’ll be snoozing away under blankets at that hour. I think the most important thing to remember to rbing is a hat, sunglasses, and sunscreen. I’ve managed to get sunburnt both times I was there, and I had all of the above. So bigger hat, and better sunscreen for me next time….

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Dear Brunnenburgers 2008:

I very much look forward to meeting (or re-meeting) each of you in Munich or Italy, and to working with you on Ezra Pound and poetry writing at Brunnenburg in a few weeks. I hope your travel preparations are proceeding well. If you haven’t yet, please complete the travel information soon, so I will know what flight to expect you on in Munich, if you are arriving there on 19 June.

I myself will be leaving the U.S. for Europe on 26 May, so if you have any last-minute questions or concerns you wish me to address, please let me know by email or telephone (504) 482-3944 this week. I should have some email contact between 26 May and 19 June, but it may not be entirely dependable.

A couple of other reminders:

1. Please read my letter of acceptance carefully, to be sure that you will have with you the required texts (especially Pound’s Personae, The Cantos of Ezra Pound, and Ridl’s 250 Poems, as these are for daily use), as well as enough (12-15) copies of at least three of your own poems for class distribution, a notebook, etc. Check the Brunnenburg website ( http://lowres.uno.edu/brunnenburg/whattobring.htm ) and Jennifer Stewart’s blog site (http://unopress.org/blog/2008/03/18/what-to-expect-at-brunnenburg-from-the-coordinator/ ) for proper dress for the castle and Italy. Bring adaptable clothing, but remember that it can be quite cool at Brunnenburg at night, so bring at least 1-2 outer garments or layeres of clothing, in case you need them. I also recommend good walking shoes, both for Dorf Tirol and for Venice, and at least one “dressier” change of clothes for special occasions (concerts, formal dinners).

2. Remember that we will all be guests of the de Rachewiltz family, living at their home which they have opened for us for the time we will be there. Our living conditions will be simple yet comfortable, and for the month, you may want to decide to leave certain kinds of typical American contraptions (hair dryers, electric shavers, etc.) at home. As we have just learned, there is now an Internet connection at the castle itself, so bring computers/printers if you intend to use them for your own writing on site. But it may be difficult to print texts, and computers are not absolutely necessary, if you would rather leave them at home. There are also Internet cafes in nearby Merano and in Venice, and at least one computer for use in Dorf Tirol, for those who want periodically to check email in the village; telephone calls can also be made in the village. Remember to tell your family and friends here that, except for emergencies, they should only call Brunnenburg directly during our lunch hour (1-2:30 pm, Brunnenburg time, which 7-8:30 am EST and 6-7:30 am CST in the U.S.). Otherwise, you may want to purchase a cell phone in Italy, if you think it is worth the cost.

3. Traditionally, visitors to Brunnenburg come bearing modest gifts and poems to show our appreciation of the de Rachewiltz family, so it would be VERY NICE if you can manage to bring something small with you for the family. Often Brunnenburgers bring something unique that represents their home region or city, for instance. Others prefer to bring a literary gift (or even to write and/or perform music for the occasion). You certainly need not bring anything elaborate or expensive. In early July, Mary de Rachewiltz, Ezra Pound’s daughter, will be celebrating her 83rd birthday, so it will be especially appropriate to bring something for Mary; we will find an opportunity to wish her a happy birthday during our stay.
In addition, Siegfried de Rachewiltz (Pound’s grandson, known as Sizzo) and Brigitte de Rachewiltz (Sizzo’s wife and our daily chef who is famous for her fabulous cooking) will be our hosts. Sizzo is curator of the Schloss Tirol, the major castle of the South Tirol, and if we ingratiate ourselves to him, he just might give us a tour of Brunnenburg and/or Schloss Tirol; he is the leading expert on the region where we will be living. Sizzo and Brigitte have two sons, Mickey and Nick, in the early twenties, who may also be in residence, so a small family gift might be nice. Finally, Mary’s other child, her daughter Patrizia, an artist and poet who now lives in Holland, may join us during our stay.

4. As soon as possible, do let Jennifer know your travel plans, if you haven’t already, so I will know to look for you at the Munich Airport, at the Cafe Treffpunkt, located directly next to the “Meeting Point” between Concourse B and Concourse C, between 8 am and 2 pm on Monday, June 6. I myself should arrive by noon.

Our objective at Brunnenburg is to work hard and to play hard, as well as to take advantage of the unique benefits of our location, unlike any other you will find. Again, let me know soon if you have concerns. Have a safe trip.

John

John R.O. Gery, Research Professor of English
& Director, Ezra Pound Center for Literature
Department of English
University of New Orleans
New Orleans, LA 70148-2315

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I just listened to a story on NPR on How to Pack Everything in One Bag.  Airlines have now limited passengers to one checked item, and one carry on item.  See this NPR article Ode to the Second Checked Bag.  Rules are different for international travel, though, so be sure to check with your particular airline before you go.  I think that some of the tips in this article are good, however, we are going to be away for a full month, which changes things a bit.  I think that it is true, though, that you always want to pack more than you need.  I have been going abroad for the better part of a decade, and  pack less each year.  And I still over pack.  But I know that I over pack.  For the most part, I’m ok with it.  I like having more than three outfits along, and more than one pair of shoes.  But  do think its good to think about what you absolutely HAVE to have, I mean, the bare minimum (keeping in mind that you can do laundry there).  And then add to it what you think you would really like to have.  And then cut that down by half….  I’ll post a list of essentials soon, but in the meantime, I want to introduce you to eBags.

eBags is a website I have been using for a number of years now, in my quest to find the best bag for long haul travel.  For me, I am personally a huge fan of one of eBags own designs, the Mother Lode.  I actually CAN pack a different outfit for 30 days in this bag, which is kind of bad, because then you are really tempted to do that.  Also, fully packed, it will be quite heavy, and right at the weight limit.  However, you won’t need another bag!  I like the rolling duffel because they go down train aisles and bus aisles really well, and if you pack them wisely, you can get so much in them.  And I love the split case feature of the bag, as you can pack shoes and books and such things in the bottom, and don’t have to worry about your shoes - or toiletries - mussing up your clothes.  So anyhow, I am not getting a kickback of any sort from eBags, but I am a fan of the bag (the 25 inch one and the smaller carry on one), so I thought I’d share….

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Ok, not THAT Gran Prix, the Prix Litteraire, a major French literary award. He just received notice that Three Day Road has tied for first place in this competition, thereby reinforcing his International Bestseller Status.

Commenting on the news of the win, Joseph said, “I’m well on my way to becoming the Jerry Lewis of France.” To which Amanda said, “Or something like that.”

Joseph’s short story collection is also up for an award in France. His new novel is slated for publication this fall, and can be pre-ordered from Penguin Canada.

Here’s Penguin’s description of the book:

From internationally acclaimed author Joseph Boyden comes an astonishingly powerful novel of contemporary aboriginal life, full of the dangers and harsh beauty of both forest and city. When beautiful Suzanne Bird disappears, her sister Annie, a loner and hunter, is compelled to search for her, leaving behind their uncle Will, a man haunted by loss.While Annie travels from Toronto to New York, from modelling studios to A-list parties,Will encounters dire troubles at home. Both eventually come to painful discoveries about the inescapable ties of family. Through Black Spruce is an utterly unforgettable consideration of how we discover who we really are.

I for one can’t wait to read it! And congrats to Joseph on his big win!

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You’ll get a paper copy of this in your welcome packet, but if any of you are interested, here’s a map of San Miguel.

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Click here to find out more info on attending AA or 12 Step Meetings in San Miguel….

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Good news for those of us who have been lugging all sorts of plugs and adapters to Europe - Mexico has the same voltage and plugs as the US.  Which means you can plug that computer right in and it will start charging.  However, I do recommend bringing some three prong adapters and surge protector with you.  All of that should cost less than ten bucks at Wal-Mart (or hopefully you can shop somewhere else and avoid the Wal-Mart beast)….

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I’ve had several people ask me this, and ‘ve been planning on putting this post up for a while now, but, as I’ sure you can all guess, this is getting to be crunch time for me, so if I’m not posting as much on the blog right now, I promise I’ll make up for it in June! So anyhow, I know you all want to know about the best ways to call home, and to stay in touch with all those loved ones you’ll have to be leaving behind. So, here goes…. There are a number of different options. By far, as always the best option is Skype.

1. Skype is a program you can download to your computer and then make phone calls from one computer to another, anywhere in the world, for FREE. And I do mean its free. The program is free to download, and its free to call any computer anywhere. You can also make calls to any land line or cell phone in the world using this program, although that will cost about 3 cents a minute. The calls are of a very high quality too - no scratchy bottom of the well sounding phone calls. You will need a headset with earphones and a microphone if these things are not built in to your computer, or if you want more privacy.

2. The second best option, in my opinion, is to get a pay as you go cell phone after you get to San Miguel (or where ever you’re going). You can get one of these for about 30 USD, and then put as much money as you like on it over the summer. Rates/plans vary. Some will include free incoming calls, and some will have cheaper call the US rates, so look into it when you get there, if this is something you’re interested in.

3. Your cell phone from the US. Chances are, it will work. But you should turn it off and forget you even have it with you while you are there, as using it will be exorbitantly expensive. If ou do think you want to use your phone, or if you have one of those sleek little iphones, make sure you call your service provider in the US and get an international calling plan befre you go. Without that, you could be paying $3 a min or more. With it, you’re still probably going to be paying a dollar a minute at least. I don’t recommend this option, except for emergencies….

4.  Ekit.  I have used this company a number of times.  They are affiliated with Lonely Planet.  You pay a certain amount, and they give yo a nmber and an access code.  Every country has a number you can call to access their system, and then you get fairly good rates to call anywhere in the world.  They are friendly and easy to work wth, although I should caution yo to check their website and find out what the rates are for the destination you’re going to, as they vary widely, and also, there are often many different access numbers you can use, some of which cost less than others.  The benefits of this are that you can use it from any phone in the world, and you prepay it.  I still keep my account active for those times when I can’t have my computer with me or when I don’t have internet access….

I definitely DO NOT recommend buying one of the expensive worldwide cell phones before you go.  You can always get a cell phone at your destination thats cheaper than those!

Also, I want to encourage everyone not to worry about this too much. You are going to be really busy while you are there, and as much fin as I know we will all have, this isn’t a vacation. So I wouldn’t plan on calling home every night. Of course, you want to stay in touch with everyone, I know, however, I just want everyone to be able to really experience living abroad!

Let me know if y’all have any questions!

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I am going to paste an introduction from Miss Emily Lupita Plum, one of our Post-Graduates who will be joining us this summer in San Miguel.  Emily has agreed to teach a Spanish Conversation class for us.  This is an informal class usually held over the lunch break and at other odd times during the month there.  Its a good way to brush up on some Spanish skills, and as it takes place over the lunch break, class may even be held at local restaraunts and other places.  So drop by te class and bursh up on your ordering skills!  Also, Emily makes a phrasebook recommendation, and I wholeheartedly second her recommendation - the Lonely Planet phrasebook and guides are exceptional!

Thanks!

Many Greetings!

I’ll be teaching a Spanish conversation class during the noon hour in San Miguel and would like to invite you to join. The class will be focused on beginners, but all levels are welcome. We’re going to concentrate on everyday interactions such as ordering food, shopping, talking about the weather, and asking for directions. It will be fun and relaxed, with lots of speaking practice and no exams. ?

We’ll be using the Lonely Planet Mexican Spanish phrasebook, so please be sure to pick one up before you leave home.

I recommend this book to everyone because it fits in your pocket and has just about everything you need to get around. Click here to find it on Amazon.com.

More details about where & when the class will meet will be given during orientation in San Miguel.

I’m also available for private Spanish tutoring in small groups.

For more information & to contact me, please visit my website: http://www.emilyplum.com

I’m really looking forward to meeting you all this summer in San Miguel de Allende!

~ Emily Lupita Plum

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This is a wonderful spot for breakfast!  The specialty here is hand made - the old fashioned way! - churros con chocolate.  Churros are long thin falky fried pastries dusted with sugar.  They are dipped in thick molten chocolate, and you can decide between three different kinds.  The difference is the amount of sweetness in the chocolate.  I went for the Chocolate Espanola, which was the least sweet, and more of a dark chocolate.  As we were there bright and early, we got to watch the churros preparations, and it was really cool to see the guys behind the counter stirring the dough with huge wooden sticks.  We also had fruit and yogurt here, and coffee and tea juice, and the entire bill for 2, here, was $208 pesos, or less than twenty dollars.  This is a nice treat, and a great pick me up after a late night….

A Fan of Churros?  Want to learn how to make your own?  Click here.

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The market in San Miguel is actually pretty awesome. You can get everything from the typical touristy stuff here, to fine jewelry, handmade crafts (pottery, baskets, tiny beaded items, etc), to food. It stretches on for what seems liek an eternity. I lusted after a chunky red necklace of fine coral. Prices for that ranged from about six hundred pesos (about $60) on up to about $1500 pesos. It is the real thing, and coral has gone up a lot. I refrained from purchasing it, much to my chagrin. But you can get necklaces of coral, turquoise, jade, amber, jet, and jasper, and just about everything in between. The colors are gorgeous, and while the craftsmanship varies, everyone seems open to bargaining. Go to the market, but don’t go on an empty stomach, like I did. You’ll want to give yourself time to find what you like, and then make sure you can’t find the same thing two stalls down for two hundred pesos less…. We bought everything frombarrettes made of abalone shell and mother of pearl, to chip and dip pottery trays. I did get two handmade journals for two of my roommates, both of whom are graduating. They were made of fine paper, and were handpainted with Dia De Los Muertes scenes on the front. I think my roommates liked them alot, and I plan on getting one for myself when I go back. These journals were all of 6o pesos (less than 6 dollars) each…. One thing to remember, though - this market is more what we would call a flea market. Its cash only ladies and gents! And also, may of the people selling these wares made them themselves. And they all seem quite desperate for the sale, which can be a bit hard, as nobody can buy everything, nor even something from everyone.

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Photo Above was actually taken in Guanajuato, and is of a mother and son.  The mother is scraping the thorns off oc cactus leaves, preparing them to eat…. 

Ok, this was probably one of my favorite places that I have eaten at in San Miguel.  The restaurant is run by an expat, and the food is delicious, and you can get stuff on the lighter side here.  The place serves breakfast as well.  Tea drinkers will be glad to know that they can find Stash and Constant Comment teas for sale here (by the box or to drink).  Vegetarians will be glad to know that they have a wider selection of food choices here, and can get some delicious fruit and vegetable juices as well.  But don’t worry carnivores, you can also get an hamburguesa (a hamburger) here, with a choice of fixins, and even a salmon with a guava chipotle marinade.  They have tacos, pasta, some delicious spinach and mushroom quesadillas, and the menu boasts a green salad with Roquefort, pears, and spiced pecans.  I had the shrimp and coconut empanadas, and they were incredibly tasty.  I would definitely order them again.  And probably again.  And a warning to anyone trying to watch their figure - here the sight of big homemade chocolate cakes and pies will probably having you watch that waistline expand ;).  And if you like what you eat, you can buy one of Kris’s cookbooks, which are on display in the restaurant and are also available for sale.  Prices are excellent, the location (just a few blocks off the Jardin) is convenient, and I foresee many happy lunches at El Buen Cafe!

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No, I’m not talking about dancing. I’ll get to that part later. I’m talking about one of my delicious meals in San Miguel. While this restaurant is definitely off the beaten path, it has a good selection of traditional Mexican fare, and is served in a lovely courtyard. Like many places, they start you out with a lovely presentation of chips and guacamole, and the ice tea, or te helado, was very refreshing after our walk there in the hot sun. Here you can get quesadillas of many different kinds - vegetarians will want to try the rajas en crema (poblano chiles and cheese - which can sometimes be a bit spicy, and sometimes will be very mild). Non-veg people will want to try the pollo con mole (chicken in mole sauce) - which I have to say was delicious, and I am really not a fan of chicken. An order of quesadillas will get your four - and you can mix and match from about six different kinds. At 58 pesos, it was delicious and a great deal! Also, Alea, my travelling companion, had a dish that was very good, but the name, unfortunately, I did not catch. It was a type of corn dish covered by a thick dark green sauce, and I highly recommend it. I will get the name for you when I go back this summer, because despite the walk this place incurs - it was well worth a second trip!

Also, for those of you interested in visiting a gym, there is one with daily rates near by - I will post on that in a bit.

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So in many of my culinary searches about San Miguel this particular restaurant comes up. They re known for their chiles en nogada frios: marinated poblano chilies filled with chopped beef, pecans, almonds, and dried fruits and topped with cream sauce and a spray of pomegranate seeds. I didn’t have these, actually, as we had snacked a little too heavily on chips and guacamole at La Pamplonada, the palce where we will have the readings. However, I did have Quesadillas de Flor de Calabzas - quesadillas with zucchini flowers, which were about 70 pesos (between 5 and 6 dollars). I thought they were awfully heavy on the cheese (but what did I expect?) and actually a little bland. With a little salsa picante, though, they were filling and good. Also, the sopa azteca, known to us gringos as tortilla soup, was quite good, although again, definitely a bit on the cheesy side. By far the culinary winner was the cerdo in chile negra - pork in a dark sauce, similar to mole, and apples. It tasted surprisingly light, and the combination of the apples and the mole were delicious. I would highly recommend this dish…. You can get it for 110 pesos, which s about 9 dollars US. Bugambilia is a bit on the pricey side, for San Miguel, but the ambiance makes it worthwhile. There was live music playing quietly throughout our meal, which was served in a lovely courtyard, centered around a large and colorful bougainvillea plant…. I would definitely go there again, and I can’t wait to try the chiles en nogada….

Want to read a review of the restaurant by the NY Times?  Click here.

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